Flood clean-up goes mouldy
Listening to a medical practitioner (the AMA Qld president no less) giving advice to QLD’s flood victims on the news at the peak of the QLD floods made me shake my head in dismay. He provided such illuminating instructions, including:
- Keep out of the water – it’s dirty (most people were already in it);
- Cover wounds with water-proof bandaids (but they got washed away);
- Use a cup of bleach in a bucket of water (tap water or flood water?) to clean walls and furniture and prevent/kill mould).
This last piece of advice makes me wonder what doctors really know about preventing disease! Top 4 Reasons NOT to use bleach to stop mould:
- Bleach doesn’t work
- Bleach is harsh and corrosive
- Bleach is toxic
- There are safer alternatives
Bleach is only effective on smooth, non-porous surfaces such as bathtubs, glass, tiles etc. These surfaces are easy to keep mould free using much safer alternatives to bleach. Bleach is unable to penetrate porous surfaces such as plasterboard or wood. In fact, only the water component of the bleach gets in to where the mould roots are growing, giving it even more moisture to feed on.
Bleach releases dangerous fumes, will burn skin and eyes, is carcinogenic and toxic to humans, animals and beneficial microbes. Rinsing bleach off back into our drains and waterways is incredibly damaging to our ecosystems and helps produce antibiotic resistant, disease-causing organisms.
Safer products to help remove mould and prevent regrowth:
- Hydrogen Peroxide
- Vinegar
- Bicarb Soda
- Tea Tree Oil
- Grapefruit Seed Extract
- Clove Oil
Hydrogen peroxide not only kills mould but it is also anti-viral and anti-bacterial. Well-diluted Hydrogen peroxide is a much safer alternative to chlorine bleach. Fill a spray bottle with 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (available in supermarkets and pharmacies). Saturate the mould surface with the spray and leave for at least 10 minutes. Scrub the affected area then wipe it down to remove residual mould and spores.
Vinegar* is also effective at controlling mould and bacteria and can be used in combination with the hydrogen peroxide spray. It’s been found that using both sprays – it doesn’t matter which one is used first - is 10 times more effective at killing harmful bugs and moulds than using just one.
*I’m not a big fan of white vinegar, although it’s cheaper, the cheap stuff is not natural but it still does the job.
Baking soda or Sodium Bicarbonate is a safe and effective way to deal with mould. Used dry, it deodorises by absorbing smells, so is ideal for sprinkling over damp carpets or furniture, then vacuuming off. Make up a spray bottle using ½ tablespoon of bicarb with water, spray the affected area and scrub. Wipe off with a damp cloth then spray again and allow the surface to dry. Brush off any excess.
Tea tree oil is one of the most effective mould killers. Just use 1 tspn of tea tree oil to a cup of water and spray or wipe onto mouldy or damp surface. Scrub or wipe away mould. There is no need to rinse with water afterwards.
The citric acid in Grapefruit seed extract kills mould naturally. Just 10 drops to a cup of water. Spray or wipe on. The longer it remains in contact with the mould, the more effective it will be at preventing it from returning. Grapefruit seed extract is also an effective disinfectant and deodoriser and is used by travellers to disinfect drinking water.
Clove Oil is also known for its antibacterial and antifungal properties. Use 1/4 tspn in a spray bottle of water in the same way as tea tree oil and grapefruit seed extract is applied
If you haven't been flooded but are still having problems with mould in your home, I have one word for you - Ventilation. Get sunlight and fresh air into your home. Put vents on cupboards and doors - or even take doors off. Don't consider using a dehumidifer because you have to close all your doors and windows (the opposite of letting in fresh air) for it to do any dehumidifying and that's not conducive to preventing mould. For more on this issue, read Dehumidifiers Debunked.